Day 79. Karijini National Park. 29/07/2105

Another early morning saw us setting off to Dales Gorge to check out the campground. When we arrived there were already about 4 caravans waiting for a spot as soon as one became available. We decided there and then we would stay where we were but would need to spin a story to the Ranger. (Ranger Dan)
 That successfully done, we did an early morning walk called the Dales Gorge Rim that gave us wonderful views of Dales Gorge. Along the walk we saw many gum trees that we now know to be called Snappy Gums, Native Cypress trees and also lots of beautiful wildflowers. We returned to camp to make coffee and sandwiches to take on our next drive to the Weano and Hancock Gorges. The road was atrocious and John was not happy to say the least particularly when an idiot 4 wheel driver sped past throwing dust and stones into the Prado. After about 60 kms along the rutted, non graded road we reached our destination. 
Our first hike was into the Lower Weano gorge and we had to negotiate some very steep rocky steps downwards until we reached a beautiful pool surrounded by the towering rock faces on both sides. The water was beautifully clear and very inviting, however, we had not gone prepared, and at one stage as we walked up into the gorge we were in water up to our waists. I feared it was getting deeper so we turned around to climb back to safer ground. We then walked/climbed our way back at the base of the gorge for some 2-3 kms. We were hot and tired at this stage. After a well earned rest, a cool drink and a chat to some young French backpackers, we walked a short distance to the lookout over the 5 gorges in the area. It was quite spectacular. 
Our drive back to camp saw us take a much longer different road, this one fully made, that had some breathtaking scenery along the way. We were following the Hammersley Ranges and they are something to see!

Early to bed again for a visit to the Tom Price mine town tomorrow.

The Snappy Gum - one we had seen before but now know it's name.

Looking down into circular pond at Dales Gorge.

The red and rough road but spectacular views in the park.

We followed the yellow track through the Gorge.

The waterhole we started to wade through at Weano Gorge.

We did at least give it a go.

The swimming hole.

In need of a breather. Was around 30deg plus at the bottom of the gorge.

The walk was quite beautiful.

Some information on the formation of the gorges.

The rock formations were awesome.

Looking down into Hancock Gorge.

Day 78. De Grey River to Karijini National Park 28/07/2015

Early rise this morning so we could get an early start to a long drive. The Great Northern Highway to Port Hedland was an easy drive, and we started to see a real change in the countryside. Just out of Port Hedland we had to stop at a rail crossing as an enormous goods train consisting of over 100 wagons all transporting Iron Ore into Port Hedland passed by. We drove past the very large Rio Tinto Minerals plant and the impressive BHP Billiton plant. We arrived about 8.30 a.m. and after getting fuel and groceries we drove along the Wharf area and saw plenty of activity with ships in port waiting to be loaded with Iron Ore and many ships anchored in the bay.  A short drive around the township gave us an overview of the area and we noticed that all the housing, flats etc. had iron coloured dust on their roofs. On our way out of town we saw a very large new housing estate and it has occurred to us that should the mining industry continue to decline what would become of all this new housing. 

We continued down the Great Northern Highway to stop for lunch at Auski Roadhouse, the stopped once more at Albert Tognolini Lookout. A fantastic view looking back along the ridge in the direction we had just driven through, two very lovely gorges. Further down the highway we saw about 6 Brumbies on the side of the road and they were in excellent condition. Finally after 350 kms we reached our destination Karijini National Park at 4 p.m. only to find Dales Gorge Campground full and we had to set up camp in the “overflow” area.  There were a number of vans etc. already parked so we were not alone.  Early dinner then bed to watch D.V.D.

The roads are excellent with some amazing mountain ranges.

Could be the WA version of the Devils Marbles.

An iron ore train with at least 100 wagons of iron ore on the way to Port Hedland.

The port was very busy with ships being loaded and escorted out to sea by tugs.

Day 77. Broome to De Grey River. 27/07/2015

Another stunning Broome morning greeted us today. Early breakfast then last few chores in readiness for departure about 9a.m. Final goodbye to cousin Keith and we were on our way South. Such a strange feeling to know that after nearly 3 months we are now heading home ever so slowly. 

The Great Northern Highway was to be our rout for 528 kms. Road straight and flat, not much change in vegetation. Passed through some large cattle stations because we did see cattle grazing on the side of the highway. Had a brief stop for a morning cuppa, then another short stop for me to make lunch of us to eat as we continued on.

On the very last stretch of our journey we came upon 2 cyclists that we have been seeing since Alice Springs at various places along our journey, but have never actually camped at the same sites. Today, they have pulled in at De Grey River campsite that was our destination for tonight. We chatted with them and they are a very interesting couple. We have been fascinated by the 2 flags they fly from their bicycles and now know they are a European Union Flag and a Welsh Flag. The couple are German and this is their 7th cycling trip of Australia. They first came here over 20 years ago, and since then have seen a great deal here. Now they are retired there is no rush to return home. They have also criss-crossed the U.S.A. and all countries in Europe.  

We went for a walk to the De Grey River itself and found there to be a very large river flat and probably about 200 caravans and campers enjoying the free camp. It is a very lovely treed area and plenty of space. Hundreds of cockatoos making plenty of noise at dusk and the cattle were venturing through the campsites munching on the small trees and shrubs making their way to the river for their “Happy Hour”

Our site was pretty bare but we were ready for a fast get away.

Camping along the river flats with plenty of shade was popular.

The De Grey River area was very peaceful apart from the cocky's screeching

The cows wandering through the camps at dusk.

The german cyclists travelled very light - 7 bike trips to Australia so far.

Day 76. Last Day in Broome - On the road again tomorrow. 26/07/2015

Today was our final day in Broome so we had just one more activity to do to complete our "wish list" a camel ride at sunset on Cable Beach.

A few chores had to be completed this morning to prepare for our early departure tomorrow so John was busy packing and cleaning whilst I took care of the laundry. We spent a little time planning our next itinerary down the south coast with suggestions from Keith and Jim (a Western Australian friend of Keiths). It is always very helpful to speak to someone who has experience and knowledge of the roads and campsites on the forward journey.

At 1 pm we joined Col and Anne for lunch at the Mangrove Hotel where they have been staying and after enjoying a very nice lunch we departed for Cable Beach to wait for our Sunset Camel Ride.

It takes some time to organise the camels for the riders and it appeared that Steve, the owner of the camels selects the camel he wishes particular riders to have. I had requested on arrival that I would like to ride Elvis and was granted my wish. Elvis is the "King" of the herd. Once we were all comfortably mounted, we walked up the beach for about half an hour as Steve walked alongside answering questions and telling us about the camel you were riding, his age and personality traits etc.   Steve told me that Elvis was 18 years old and that he was his favourite Camel. We then turned around and headed back along the beach just as the sun was setting. The Camels are surprisingly calm and respond to Steve's commands without hesitation.  These would have to be the most photographed Camels in the world. Everyday the beach is lined with onlookers all taking photos as you ride by. It was an amazing experience and a fantastic way to end our time here in Broome.

Our Broome holiday has far exceeded our expectations. The weather has been perfect every day, the people friendly and helpful and the tours we did were simply outstanding. Much of the success of our time in Broome can be attributed to the wonderful attention given to us by Keith and Pat. They were so warm and welcoming and made sure that every day was going to be memorable for us. We thank them very much and someday we hope to return their kindness.

On the way back tomorrow.

Waiting for the Camel Ride

Col and Ann with Jack.

Wendy with Elvis.

Mounted and ready to go.

Col and Ann leading the train - both look very comfortable.

Wendy and Elvis at sunset.

The camel train looked spectacular.

Back safely. Well done Col you did well.

Wendy says goodbye to her new friend.

Day 75. Around Town and Christmas in July. 25/07/2015

This morning we collected Colin and Anne to take them to the markets and we enjoyed the atmosphere once again. A little later we drove them to see the wharf and then dropped them off at the Historical Museum. We then did some shopping before returning to camp for lunch then spent the afternoon catching up of emails etc.  At 5 pm. we made our way to the Manager’s Residence where we were to join in on the” Christmas in July” event. The garden area was set up with tables and chairs to seat around 100 people, plenty of fairy lights in the beautiful Frangipani trees, 2 fire pits, and a singer/guitarist who entertained for the entire evening. Each table was decorated differently by the guests and the best table won a prize along with the best dressed lady and the best dressed man. We enjoyed a lovely 3 course meal and the raffle prizes were wonderful having all been donated by local tourist companies and all money raised went to the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

This table had lots of laughs.

Some of the 100 campers celebrating Christmas in July.

Cousin Keith entertained with the Richmond Theme  Song.

The entertainer was very good.

The dancing kept the girls entertained.

Day 74. Broome Raceday. 24/072015

After a lazy morning around camp and an early lunch we headed out of town just a little to the Broome Racecourse. This racecourse is rated amongst the top 3 racecourses in the world for views. The view across the track is of the beautiful Indian Ocean and the view behind the racecourse is just the same. It is a very popular event in Broome and even though it was a Friday the racecourse was very well patronised. The whole set up was terrific with lovely shaded seating and eating areas, plenty of bars and food serverise, live music and even “Fashions on the Field” that attracted some very beautiful young women dressed in their finery. There were 8 races on the day and unfortunately John left his money at the racetrack. As we were leaving we were surprised to find  people gambling and playing baccarat at card tables and they even play two-up in a specially constructed ring. The entertainment and gambling goes on long after the horse races have finished.

Returned to camp and to have dinner with Keith and Pat. They had prepared a fabulous meal of Snapper (the fish Keith and John had caught on Thursday) and  John and I agreed that it was one of the best fish meals we have ever eaten.!

These punters had no luck but a lot of fun.

The oyster shell finish line - most appropriate.

A 10 length winner on the sand and oil track.

A good crowd - mostly holiday makers.

The sponsors groups were very involved.

The outside garden area was also popular.

These fillies were very attractive.

You could lose your hard earned at the gambling tables.

Day 73. Willie Creek Pearl Farm. 23/07/2015

We have become so accustomed to waking up each morning to blue sunny skies that if a day should be different we will be wondering what has happened.  

Todays adventure was to visit the Willie Creek Pearl Farm, a distance of about 28 kms away and most of the journey was on unsealed but graded roads. The farm is situated on the Willie Creek inlet that is influenced by the tides from the Indian Ocean. The water is a beautiful turquoise colour reflecting the limestone surrounding the creek itself. Broome has been famous for its moon bright pearls and mother of pearl for more than 100 years and the region’s South Sea Pearls fetch top prices around the world as they are the largest and most lustrous oceanic gems.

On arrival we were taken to a shed where we were given a talk and demonstration on all aspects of the pearling industry by a young man Seve (a very cute Irishman) who was both knowledgable and extremely humorous. His talk lasted about 45 mins in which time we learnt so much about pearls, how they are harvested, what size they have to be before they can be seeded and how that seeding takes place. We learnt all about the techniques for controlling oyster growth, health and production. We also learnt about each individual type pearl how they are graded and the price of the pearls.

To become a pearl technician, a person has to do a 4 year Marine Biologist course at University followed  by a 4 year apprenticeship in the industry. These technicians are highly regarded and very well paid for their delicate work.

At the completion of the talk and demonstration we had a very lovely morning tea followed by a visit to the nearby fish breeding tanks where we saw a number of tropical fish and in the larger tanks some huge female Barramundi. We then went to the waters edge to board the boat to take us out to view the oyster frames that are suspended beneath bouys so that the tides can control and develop the pearls in the shell. We also saw examples of some oyster shells that were being attacked by various clams etc. that have to be cleaned from the shell so the growth of the pearl is not harmed in any way. 

A short cruise followed along the mangroves to see if we could spot the resident 5 metre croc that inhabits the creek. One was seen but not by us. On returning to the shore we then visited the very lovely showrooms where there was a fantastic display of jewellery featuring the magnificent Willie Creek Pearls and which of course were for sale. A quick demonstration of pearls to have us guess the prices and then we were left to browse the cabinets. 

After hearing about the cultivation process of these beautiful pearls we had a new appreciation and understanding of the price ticket. Nothing was within our budget so we left empty handed!

Returned to the town to get petrol and some shopping then later we attended Happy Hour barbecue, followed by coffee and cake at the camp of Keith and Pats’s friends John and Donna who made us feel most welcome.   

Tomorrow the Broome g.g’s.

Wendy can't wipe the smile off with this $4,000 pearl. (She had to return it).

The willie Creek Showroom.

The classroom.

Seve our guide and instructor. He was excellent.

Removing the pea crab. Every pearl shell has one.

Showing where the pearl grows.

Pearl shells in frames that are left in the creek tides for two years to grow before collecting pearl.

A line of bouys where the frames are suspended.

A tour of Willie Creek only one croc seen.

An aboriginal story worth reading.

A large female barramundi.