Our journey today began at 8 a.m. with blue skies overhead, a little cloud here and there and a temperature that was climbing with each kilometre we travelled.
The road is in good condition as has all the bitumen roads we have travelled here in W.A. We came upon some extensive road works that slowed us down a little, plus we had to pull over to allow 2 very wide load semi-trailers that were transporting “Dongas” to another site. The landscape changed considerably after we passed through the ranges when we found flatter countryside that was starting to show signs of coastal plants and shrubs and ti-tree. As we drove closer to Exmouth we saw our first sheep grazing since we were in S.A. and also passed many caravans going in the opposite direction indicating to us that Exmouth was going to be very busy with tourists.
On our arrival at about 11.30 a.m. after travelling around 230 kms, we were allotted a site in the “overflow” area of the Exmouth Cape Holiday Park, but I must say it is an excellent grassed site with plenty of room and in a very nice section of the park.
Did not take us long to set up, have lunch then set off to familiarise ourselves with the township and surrounds. Exmouth has an interesting history as the first documented European landing on the Ningaloo Coast was made by a Dutch Captain in 1618 near the tip of what is now known as North West Cape which was 150 years before Captain Cook arrived on the east coast at Botany Bay. Renowned for being one of the world’s most treacherous coastlines the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse was constructed in 1911 and the Point Cloates Lighthouse in 1912. Very little changed on the North West Cape until 1942 during World War 11 when the US Navy established a submarine base under the code name Operation Potshot. This facility only served as a permanent base for a short time but continued to operate as a refuelling facility. The Australian Navy and Air Force personnel operated early warning radar and anti-aircraft guns in support of this base and the area was actually bombed by the Japanese although no damage was sustained. In 1963 in an agreement between the Australian and US governments to establish a Very Low Frequency transmitter which was name the Harold E. Holt Communications Station (after the PM of the time) because of the escalating Cold War and the need to establish a communications system with nuclear warhead equipped US submarines.The town of Exmouth was created to support this facility and both the Communications Station and the town were officially declared and opened in 1967.
Our drive took us a little way out of town to see the Harold Holt Communications Station where the VLF transmitter, the second tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere standing at 387 metres high is erected. Tower Zero is surrounded by 12 other towers for support. It can withstand winds of up to 500 kms per hour which is necessary because of the frequency of cyclones in the area here. The facility is no longer run by the two Governments, but is now in the hands of civilian contractors. It is quite an amazing sight to see on a very barren landscape with the Indian Ocean surrounding it.
We drove the steep incline to the Lighthouse and here we marvelled at the fantastic view of the ocean. A short drive to one of the many beaches we will see over the next couple of days to whet John’s appetite for some fishing he plans to do.
Did a little shopping in the small shopping mall before returning to camp to have dinner, watch the Suns and the Eagles draw their game before another early night.
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View of the Ningaloo Coast from the Lighthouse lookout. |
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Some history of the Heritage Area. |
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The lighthouse and remnants of the early warning framework. |
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Some aboriginal history. |
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Defending Exmouth during the war. |
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Movement of the whales to the Exmouth Gulf. |
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LPG and oil exploration off the Coast. |
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